Known for her polished, tailored style, Melania typically favors high-end European brands like Dior and Dolce & Gabbana. But this time, she wore a striking black coat featuring an exaggerated white collar adorned with Renaissance-style images of a kissing couple. The piece hails from a 2019 collaboration between Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli and Japanese designer Jun Takahashi of Undercover. The dramatic collar had social media buzzing, leaving many to wonder: What exactly was she trying to say?

Unlike other First Ladies, Melania has rarely used fashion to make overt political statements. Her wardrobe has traditionally leaned toward timeless, feminine silhouettes, with an emphasis on impeccable tailoring. Think more European royalty than bold, experimental risk-taker. But when she has made a statement through her clothes, it hasn’t always gone over well.

One of the most infamous examples? The “I Really Don’t Care, Do U?” jacket she wore in 2018 while spending time with a migrant children’s shelter. The jacket’s message was widely criticized, interpreted by many as insensitive given the context. In her memoir, Melania claimed the jacket was directed at the media, not the children. However, her former press secretary, Stephanie Grisham, alleged that it was Donald Trump who spun the message as a jab at the press. Either way, the move remains one of Melania’s most controversial fashion moments.